Reviewed by Souad Charifi Hadj, registered pharmacist no. 2676.
Myths and truths about oily skin
I have oily skin, it shines, I get pimples, I've tried everything and I don't know how to take care of it.
This is one of the most frequent questions I receive.
Oily skin is skin that appears greasy, shiny, with blackheads, pimples, and other typical imperfections of this skin type, due to an excess in sebum production.
What is sebum?
Sebum is a lipid material produced by the sebaceous glands present in our skin; this sebum is excreted into the hair follicles. The activity of the sebaceous glands is primarily controlled by hormonal stimuli.
Androgen hormones stimulate the activity of the sebaceous glands, increasing their size, which results in increased sebum production and consequently leads to oily skin.
Estrogens and vitamin A derivatives will have the opposite effect; they will decrease their activity.
Sebum is composed of triglycerides, fatty acids, unsaponifiable compounds, mostly cholesterol lipids. It forms the lipid film that covers the skin's surface. Its most important function is to prevent water loss from the skin surface; it has been shown to have bactericidal and fungicidal activity and is responsible for body odor.
And its most negative aspect is that sebum is the breeding ground for acne.
Once we accept the idea that sebum production is regulated by the hormonal system, it must be very clear to us that to control this type of skin when there is severe production or vulgar acne, hormonal treatments must be used. Only your dermatologist can advise you on this step, not your friend's or neighbor's pills. Medical treatments to control acne are very serious, and I insist that you should only consult a dermatologist.
Assuming that the activity of the sebaceous glands is controlled by the hormonal system, it must be very clear to us that it will not be possible to act at this level, except with hormonal treatments, and for that purpose, you must go only and exclusively to your dermatologist (this would be the case for people suffering from vulgar acne or excessive sebum production) and with a change in eating habits.
How can we help you at Biovardi?
When dealing with oily skin, the most important thing is to choose the cosmetic products you use very carefully. They should be suitable for oily skin, not contain irritating substances, not dehydrate the skin, not dry it out, and not cause inflammation.
What is sought are products that help improve the appearance of oily skin, limit imperfections such as pimples and blackheads, and reduce shine and greasiness.
I'm going to pause to explain what blackheads are:
The sebum produced by the sebaceous glands is excreted into the sebaceous follicle, and from there it goes to the surface of the skin to perform its functions. There are situations where this follicle is obstructed, which prevents the sebum from escaping, and comedones, also called whiteheads, can appear, giving the skin a granular appearance. On the other hand, open comedones can appear where sebum accumulates, and due to the presence of melanin, they will have a black color in the center and are the famous blackheads.
In summary, blackheads are sebum accumulations that cannot exit through the follicular canal and, due to the effect of melanin, have that black color in the center.
How should I care for my oily skin?
Step 1
I will tell you what I tell my clients: the most important thing is good facial cleansing. Facial cleansing is essential when caring for oily skin. You have to choose suitable cleansers for this skin type, which will not only clean it but also regulate sebum, reduce shine, clear pores, soothe the skin, and regenerate it.
Avoid products that promise to completely eliminate sebum. You will end up with dry and dehydrated skin, then inflammation and discomfort will start, and you may end up with a rebound effect, meaning increased sebum production.
My favorite products that have proven effective in cleaning oily skin are:
-EVOLVE ORGANIC BEAUTY DETOX FACIAL CLEANSER 100 ML:
Cleanses, detoxifies, and balances the skin.
Has a gentle exfoliating effect.
Provides extra hydration, detox, and soothes the skin.
-S5 SKINCARE NEUTRALISE CLEANSER
Gently cleanses and removes impurities without irritating the skin.
African Moringa Peptides remove pollution microparticles and protect the skin, while Prickly Pear extract hydrates and soothes irritation.
-MACROBIO CLEAN CLEANSING GEL 250 ML
Removes impurities, makeup, dirt from pores, and prevents blackhead formation.
Cleanses, purifies, and hydrates.
-D’ALCHÉMY FACIAL CLEANSING GEL
Thanks to its delicate and safe natural cleansing components, it provides perfect cleansing without irritation, does not alter the skin's hydrolipidic balance, and protects its natural pH.
-JANE APOTHECARY SOOTHING CLEANSING BALM
Deeply cleanses and soothes the skin. This calming effect is due to its content of Calendula, Chamomile, and Aloe Vera. After application, the skin feels fresh, clean, and hydrated.
STEP 2
After cleansing, we move on to the next step,
Apply the treatment, which will be in the form of a serum. Choose the most suitable one for you based on what you are most concerned about correcting.
The ones that have shown the best results are:
Reduces imperfections, balances sebum production, and minimizes pores.
Acts to prevent inflammation and irritation.
-EVOLVE ORGANIC BEAUTY RAINFOREST RESCUE SERUM
Natural and powerful treatment for combination and oily skin, regulates sebum production, relieves skin congestion, visibly improves imperfections of combination and oily skin.
The skin becomes more radiant, clearer, and protected from future pimple outbreaks that no one wants.
-MACROBIO HYDRATOR LOTION+SERUM
Re-hydrates, repairs, and revitalizes all skin types, even the most mature, dry, or damaged. Eliminates imperfections and acne, calms and relieves irritations. Oxygenates and beautifies the skin by intensely hydrating it.
Helps reduce breakouts. Brightens dark spots. Regulates sebum production to prevent unwanted shine on the skin.
Step 3
After applying the serum, it's time to moisturize with a cream, choosing more fluid formulas that hydrate the skin without adding more oil.
At this stage, I always recommend using the cream from the same line as the serum or, if you prefer, another one from a different brand; it doesn't matter. But it is very important to consider what we are looking for in the cream: whether it is hydrating, anti-spot, antioxidant, regulating, etc.
And always indicated for oily skin.
Tips:
It is very important for oily skin to exfoliate the face twice a week to clean the pores more deeply.
Applying a serum with glycolic acid would help improve the appearance of typical oily skin imperfections.
Serum with vitamin C to protect the skin from oxidation caused by pollution and UV rays.
Summary
When it comes to caring for oily skin, there are no miracles. The best thing you can do for it is to have 3 basic products: a good cleanser, a good serum, and a good moisturizer, not forgetting a good exfoliant.
Choose your cosmetics according to your needs. You don't need 200,000 products to care for your skin. There is no cream in the world that can change the functioning of the sebaceous glands, as it is controlled by the hormonal system, and if there is, please recommend it to me :)
For very problematic oily skin with acne, it is best to visit your dermatologist; they are the only skin professional who will know how to guide you toward pharmacological treatments.
And please, do not prepare your cosmetics in the kitchen or use homemade recipes; they are simply not hygienic, and I doubt they work.
Don't forget to take care of your diet.
If you have any questions, contact me
souad@biovardi.com