Open pores: why they're more visible in summer and how to minimize them

Reviewed by Souad Charifi Hadj, registered pharmacist no. 2676.

If you look in the mirror in the middle of July and notice your open pores are more pronounced than in winter, it's not your imagination: heat makes them more visible. The good news is that, while there's no way to "close" them permanently, you can significantly reduce their appearance with a well-thought-out natural skincare routine. In this guide, we'll explain, without hype, why they dilate, what really works, and what active ingredients help your skin look smoother and more even.

What are open pores and why do they dilate?

Open pores are, in reality, the visible opening of the pilosebaceous follicle: the channel through which the sebum produced by your skin exits. We all have pores (they are essential for lubricating the skin and regulating its temperature), but their apparent size varies greatly from person to person. Dermatological science agrees that there are three main culprits that make a pore appear larger:

• Excess sebum. The more oil the sebaceous gland produces, the wider the pore opening becomes. There is a direct relationship between sebum production and pore size.
• Genetics and hormones. Skin type and the activity of testosterone on the sebaceous glands are largely determined by your genes. This is why some people have noticeable pores from adolescence.
• Age and sun damage. With age, we lose collagen and elastin, the "scaffolding" that keeps the pore tight and round. Without this support, the pore sags and appears larger and tear-shaped. Accumulated sun exposure accelerates this process.

In summary: part of pore size is constitutional (you won't change it entirely), but another part — that which depends on sebum, cleansing, and skin firmness — is within your control.

Why pores are more noticeable in summer

Here's the seasonal key. As skin temperature rises, sebaceous glands produce more sebum: heat, humidity, and sweat trigger oiliness. This extra sebum fills and dilates the pore opening, and also traps sweat, sunscreen, and pollution, forming small plugs that make the pore appear even wider. Add to that the sun — which degrades perifollicular collagen — and you have the perfect storm for seeing the pores on your nose and cheeks more open than ever in August.

That's why summer is, paradoxically, the best time to review your routine: not to "dry out" your skin harshly, but to intelligently regulate sebum and protect the structure that keeps pores refined.

Can pores be closed? The honest answer

No, pores don't open and close like a door: they don't have muscles. Any product that promises to "close" them permanently is exaggerating. What you can do — and what effective treatments achieve — is minimize their appearance: empty them of sebum and dirt, reduce the amount of oil they produce, and strengthen collagen so the opening looks tighter. The result is visibly smoother skin, even if the pore is still there (and thankfully, because you need it).

Understanding this is liberating: you stop looking for a miracle and start building a realistic routine that, with consistency, does yield visible results.

How to minimize open pores step by step

1. Gentle double cleansing, morning and night

A clean pore looks smaller. Cleansing is the most cost-effective step against dilated pores, because it removes excess sebum and debris that clog them. The key is not to overdo it: harsh cleansers that leave skin feeling "tight" cause a rebound effect and the skin produces even more oil to compensate. Choose a gentle facial cleanser, ideally with clay or purifying active ingredients for combination and oily skin, and be consistent morning and night.

2. Niacinamide: the star active ingredient for pores

If there's one ingredient with scientific backing for pores, it's niacinamide (vitamin B3). Studies show that applied topically, it reduces sebum production and improves the appearance of dilated pores. A double-blind trial with 2% niacinamide significantly reduced the rate of sebum secretion after two and four weeks of use, and another study published in the British Journal of Dermatology observed improvements in elasticity and pore appearance after 12 weeks. It works in two ways: it regulates the sebaceous gland and strengthens the skin barrier. You can incorporate it into a facial serum.

3. Gentle chemical exfoliation, 1-2 times a week

Exfoliants with mild acids (AHA or PHA type) dissolve the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together inside the pore. By keeping the channel clear, the pore looks smaller and the skin brighter. In summer, prioritize gentle formulas and don't exfoliate daily: over-exfoliation irritates and increases oiliness. If your skin is sensitive, once or twice a week is better, always with daily sun protection.

4. Light hydration (yes, even if you have oily skin)

One of the biggest mistakes is to stop moisturizing oily skin for fear of "greasing" it up more. When skin becomes dehydrated, it produces more sebum to compensate, and the pore dilates again. The solution is light hydration, with a fluid texture and without heavy occlusion, to keep the barrier balanced without oversaturating.

5. Daily sun protection, non-negotiable

The sun is the great enemy of pores in the long term: it degrades the collagen that keeps the opening tight. Daily sunscreen — better if it's mineral and has a fluid texture — is, literally, an anti-aging treatment for your pores. No anti-pore routine works without this step.

Natural ingredients that help refine pores

Beyond niacinamide, natural cosmetics have interesting allies for skin prone to dilated pores:

• Clays (such as bentonite or kaolin): absorb excess sebum and purify deeply, ideal in cleansers and masks.
• Witch hazel and botanical astringent actives: provide a feeling of tighter skin and help control shine, without the drying alcohol of classic toners.
• Ferments and probiotic actives: balance the skin's microbiome and pH, leading to more orderly sebum production.
• Zinc: known for its role in oil control and its soothing effect.

Common mistakes that enlarge pores

• Rubbing and over-exfoliating. More is not better: it irritates, inflames, and triggers sebum production.
• Using harsh alcohol or astringents. They dry the surface and cause more oil production underneath.
• Skipping hydration. Dehydrated skin compensates by producing oil.
• Forgetting sunscreen. It's the number one preventable cause of dilated pores over the years.
• Touching and squeezing pores. This inflames the area and can leave marks and scars.

Frequently asked questions about open pores

Can pores be permanently closed?

No. Pores don't have muscles and don't open or close. You can minimize their appearance by emptying them of sebum, reducing oiliness, and strengthening the skin's collagen.

Why are my pores more open in summer?

Because heat and humidity increase sebum production, which fills and dilates the pore. Additionally, sweat and sunscreen can accumulate and form plugs that make them more visible.

Which ingredient is best for pores?

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is the active ingredient with the most scientific backing: it regulates sebum and improves pore appearance. Purifying clays, gentle exfoliants, and good light hydration are good companions.

Does oily skin also need hydration?

Yes, very much so. If you don't hydrate, the skin produces more sebum to compensate for dehydration, which worsens pores. Choose light, non-occlusive textures.

Does cold water close pores?

Only momentarily: cold slightly constricts the skin, but the effect disappears in minutes. It's not a treatment, although it is a pleasant refreshing gesture in summer.

Conclusion

Open pores don't "close," but their appearance can be greatly improved with consistency: gentle cleansing, niacinamide, occasional exfoliation, light hydration, and daily sun protection. In summer, the challenge is greater because heat increases sebum, so it's the ideal time to adjust your routine with natural cosmetics that regulate without being aggressive. You can start with our acne and imperfection collection, designed for skin with oily tendencies and noticeable pores.

And if you're unsure between products, don't guess: take our free AI skin analysis and let our team of pharmacists guide you towards what your skin truly needs.

References

• Parvar et al. (2023). The efficacy and adverse effects of treatment options for facial pores: A review article. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
• Endly & Miller (2017). Oily Skin: A Review of Treatment Options. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (PMC).
• Niacinamide: A Multi-functional Cosmeceutical Ingredient. Practical Dermatology.
• Draelos et al. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy.